Puebla and Oaxaca

Puebla and Oaxaca

We left for Puebla on Friday and arrived 2 hours later. The bus trip was only 2 hours and the movie, though in Spanish, helped to pass the time.

This is a beautiful city with beautiful people. Our hotel was gorgeous (and not expensive). We had balconies that overlooked the square below which was closed to cars. When we arrived, we found a place for lunch called La Communa. The owner (I assume he was the owner) was warm and helped us choose from the menu. Although small, the restaurant was charming and very close to our hotel. The food was delicious and the owner gave Bob and Matt large lager glasses to take home with them (Paulaner I think). He was very friendly and asked Bob who was taking pictures of his place to send him photos so they exchanged email message.

We shopped a bit, spent time in the plaza (which was beautiful) and visited a couple of churches in the vicinity. Ana is a riot! She can spot Mama Mary (The Blessed Virgin) anywhere. Her latest is making the adults laugh by saying, "I need TP for my bunghole." Obviously, we try desperately not to laugh because this is something we don't want her to say in public, but we end up laughing anyway. Maybe tomorrow we will try harder.

She also wants everyone to be happy, so she will say, "Nonnie happy?" She does this especially when she has done something wrong (never too wrong--just enough to know that she did something that the adults didn't approve of). She will ask the waiter for the check when she is ready to leave (even if we aren't), "La cuenta, por favor." And she loves to eat. She eats stuff that is hot (she says, "Pica!") and loves to keep her plate, so when the waiter comes to clear the table, she'll say, "No esta!" She is trying very hard to get potty trained and often will tell her mommy and daddy that she has to go "Poopy in the toilet." For some reason, she does this on an almost regular basis mostly when we are in a restaurant. She was wonderful on the busride and is getting used to us telling her no, even when she adds a "por favor" when she asks one of us to pick her up (instead of her walking). She's been gone for only 9 months, but she has grown so much in that short period--physically, mentally, and emotionally. She has a good English and Spanish vocabulary and sometimes speaks both, but if I ask her to say it the other way, she will translate her Spanish for her monolingual dumbass nonnie.

We only spent one night in Puebla, leaving this beautiful city after a delicious breakfast in the hotel dining room.

We boarded the bus for Oaxaca--this was a 4 and 1/2 hour trip and again, Ana was amazing. The hotel at first seemed a bit run-down, but part of that perception was my FIRST DAY FREAKOUT which I get everytime I travel the very first day after we arrive. The hotel was lovely, charming--with a wonderful staff who would do anything for us. We had free coffee in the morning, Internet, and met a group of ex-pats who live in Guanajuata, Mexico--very interesting. Matt and Veronica love Oaxaca so we would stay for 3 nights. I'm so glad, because this was a stunning experience. I had heard that it was a beautiful city. When we arrived, I was looking for beautiful buildings, flowers everywhere, but on day one, I was not impressed.

Day two, however, we ate breakfast on Sunday in a beautiful restaurant--a colorful, tastefully decorated courtyard with a balcony, exquisite old architecture, and sharply dressed waiters and waitresses. There was a trio playing classical Mexican music--two violins and a keyboard. The food was beautifully presented in large white platters, the tablecloths and napkins were white cloth with that Mexican blue, and the service was impeccable. We lingered over coffee and enjoyed an elegant Mexican breakfast--again, Ana was a doll! I cannot get over how many people point at her and have to touch her and smile. I'm sure it's her red hair, but she is a beautiful child and very smart (I know, I'm her grandma and have to say that, but I don't). After breakfast, we walked to a church that was gorgeous. I've been to quite a few churches during this trip and I"ve prayed for many of my friends and family members, so I hope you appreciate it. There was a little market so I bought some jewelry and a few other things for mi casa. Unfortunately, the damn cold is hanging on and I've yet to get rid of the cough and the dizziness. It's rainy season here and it has been quite humid and damp out, although nothing like it is back east. Dinner was on the patio at one of the many restaurants on the square. There are many beggars here and they don't leave after just a pilot, "Gracias, no." I have found it hard to resist their beautiful wares, and will be coming home with a scarf or two and a mask, and some carvings. One lady approached me four times in two days, and the last day, she actually smiled as she walked up to me. We saw a number of entertaining groups in the plaza at night (again, our hotel was not far from the city's centro)--a drum and bugle corps (many acts of different ages), dancers (couples -- tango, ballroom) and I really enjoy people watching at the plaza.

We took a tour of Monte Alban, a prehistoric ruin near Oaxaca. Remember, I have been having trouble with my knee? Well, thanks to Ana, who sings Ave Maria to help "nonnie's knee get better" I was able to keep up with everyone and wasn't even sore the next day. Every morning, Ana would come into our hotel room and ask, "Nonnie's knee is getting better?" Once she starts singing Ave Maria, there better not be anyone who makes a suggestion that she stop or sing something else--oh, and the only words she knows, of course, are Ave and Maria. This was a stunning place. Unfortunately, our tour guide was phoning it in. He was a Mexican man who at 83 years old continues to climb up these hills and walk around with these tourists. I'm sure he knew more than he told us about Monte Alban, because he seemed very intelligent and was well-spoken, but we were disappointed by the lack of breadth of his information. I wished I had done some research about it earlier.

One night we did a little babysitting (just a couple of hours) so Matt and Veronica could enjoy some time alone. Ana was wonderful, so I hope they allow us to do this again before we leave.

We visited a convent-museum that was gorgeous with a lovely garden. We spent quite a bit of time here, because the place was so beautiful, quiet and inspiring.

We visited a woman's artisinal cooperative and here's where I started spending money. I bought some more masks (reproductions from Monte Alban) and a beautiful hammock (I know, I know--I already have two hammocks) and some jewelry and wooden carved animals. The prices were so low, I could not pass these beautiful artifacts up. We went to a bookstore that is famous for selling many good books written in English and I bought another Michael Connolly and Julia Child's My Life in France (which I am almost finished with) for our 6 and 1/2 hour bus ride home.

I've learned that the word beautiful has many connotations. Only after seeing the artisanal works, speaking with the people, visiting the museums, walking along the cobbled streets, can one truly understand how Oaxaca is beautiful. The light and sky is like New Mexico's, at least this time of year, and just adds to the mystique of the place. I am so happy that we got to see these beautiful cities and other parts of Mexico City.

Today is Friday. I am writing this during a time when everyone else has walked to the plaza. I'm still dizzy and feel nauseous if I walk around for too long.

Yesterday, Bob and Matt went to the Archaeological museum. Matt researched and Bob walked through as much of the museum as he could. We met them for lunch in Polanco (another part of Mexico City that is supposed to be like Los Angeles' Hollywood) and had a lovely meal at El Bajios. We had a couple of appetizers, I had lamb, Bob had pork enchiladas, Matt had the seasonal Chile en nogada and Veronica had potato and leek soup and nopales salad. The food here is delicious, but it is never served HOT--always warm--sometimes bordering on cold. However, it has been very good. I don't know what happened to me the last time I came here when I became so ill with Montezuma's revenge, but so far (and I'm almost afraid to say it outloud) I've been fine and have eaten a lot of food here.

Tomorrow we are going to another neighborhood of Mexico City (this city is so large it is divided up into districts or neighborhoods much like Paris's arrondisements), Condessa. I'm really looking forward to it as it is supposed to be a sophisticated (but not unfriendly) neighborhood where intellectuals (university students?) gather.

Today, we had lunch at Los Danzantes. It was a lovely restaurant--beautifully decorated with friendly and attentive servers. The food was delicious--I had goat and a roasted layered potato cake; Veronica had a duck and goat cheese salad, Bob had short ribs with pineapples and a red sauce the means "stains the tablecloth" and Ana had bean soup. We all tried different desserts as well: Bob, cajeta crepes; me, goatcheese cake with mole, and Veronica had a lovely quince turnover. We ate on the patio and were serenaded by various musicians. It was relaxing and just damn nice.